Espresso Mundo

Espresso coffee is embedded in European Culture, its part of the daily lives of millions.
Every morning in many European cities, you see packed coffee bars were people from all walks of life and profession mingle and discuss life events, work issues and gossip over a cappuccino or espresso.

Men in suits, woman in designer brand clothe and high heels, builders, doctors, writers etc all enjoying their favorite brew.
During my travels to many of Europe coffee loving countries, I was very fortunate to experience this culture.
Over machiatto, Cortado, or cafe noir, I would watch and enjoy, the theatre.

The Barista on duty showing all the skill, passion and concentration that would remind me of a concert pianist or a tenor during their performance, his instrument of passion, the espresso machine consisting of  metal and pipes, heat exchangers and boiler to name a few parts, a blend of traditional design and modern technology,  as delicate as a grand piano, but also temparmental that requires the Barista to handle with great skill and control, in order to bring out the best - crema- aroma and flavours from the coffee just  freshly ground and dosed into the portafilter basket.

I would like to share my coffee seeking, travelling experiences, together with the local gastronomy and history of the locations I have visited.

I believe this is the adventure, sometimes the places you visit take your heart and these have to be mentioned more in detail as they are icons, treasures to be shared by all who love coffee and food.

I have chosen Europe to start with, what better place? diverse - every country has its own style, methods and legends regarding coffee and food,  as I have been based in the UK, working in the coffee industry and after all Europe is just across the Channel.

Sicily

Palermo, Mondello, Monreale and Cefalu

When the Airplane lands in Palermo people say there's a very special feeling about the place, it could be its relationship to the movie The Godfather, or the warm Mediterranean air, maybe the friendliness in its residents.
To me, its in the family, my grandmother was Sicilian, and I wanted to follow the roots, see were she was born and how the residents of the Island live.





Walking trough the streets of Palermo early in the morning, it does not take much time to find your self wanting to join the crowds and dive into one of the many espresso bars scattered all round, the best times are the early mornings when the Barista is perked up and the pastries on offer are still warm,"specially when you see the bakery van pull up outside the Cafe"

The mornings belong to the (Capucho) "Cappuccino to us" or the Cafe Latte, the pastry is served in a paper serviette(I think this is because it wont take you long to consume as they are so good), The atmosphere is busy and very loud, the coffee is just Fantastic!

 Coffee in this Southern Italian island, is different, having been to Rome, Florence, Venice and other parts of Italy, I could not find espresso coffee like in Sicily.
Why? you might ask.

I believe its uniqueness and isolation has contributed a lot to this, like Australia, Sicily also has, over the many years developed its own rich culture that is reflected in its architecture, food, wine and yes Espresso Coffee.

The Sicilians like their coffee strong with a thick head of crema, most likely the result of a good percentage of Robusta in the blend, this coffee is nothing like I have tasted before, the watery thin crema of a 100% Arabica blend is not easy to come by in Sicily, instead you get a fantastic coating of oils left in the cup that I believe also is the cause of extremely fresh coffee



I asked why is coffee so good in Sicily, the reply I got was that as espresso coffee is such a big part of their daily lives, it has to be correct, like their wine and sea food.

I even tested a grandmother, who was in charge of the coffee machine in a local Cafe/restaurant, the coffee she made me was "perfect".




The Capuchin Catacombs. When I visited the Capuchin Friars Catacombs in Palermo, It was a very exciting time, over 400 years after their beginning I was finally to meet the people who the great Cappuccino was named after.
 FYI this came by the colour of the Friars cape which is a shade of brown,  the coffee and milk finish when the beverage is made has the same colour finish.

 I can just see it
A coffee based beverage was made some time in the past in Italy, the finished drink would have the same shade of brown when finished and served, which would have looked to the customer like a miniature cape or habit.
The catacombs or Passageways were used as burial grounds for the Friars, later on the wealthy who wanted to be preserved for eternity in their best clothe.

No!- there was no espresso bar at the Catacombs, just a small church (by Italian standards) and a friendly Friar taking fees at the entrance to the Catacomb were they keep the Embalmed bodies of almost 8000 people lining the walls looking down on you while you pay a visit, its a very intimidating place specially as you walk the tunnel by your self.

After a some what dramatic experience...

It was not far to walk to the bus stop in order to visit our next attraction, but while waiting for the bus, I noticed a delivery van parked outside a patisserie, I had to investigate.
I had a look inside through the shop window and quickly signaled my wife to come over as there in front of me was the most beautiful tray of fresh ricotta cannoli I have ever seen.
It only took me a few seconds to make my choice and forget about the bus -cannolo di Ricotta e pistacchio per favore!





Wood fired roasted coffee Walk by a cafe and you will read (if you understand Italian)
 "we serve wood fired roasted coffee"  now that really stopped me in my tracks, I had to try it.

The cafe was nothing out of the ordinary, but the coffee was something different, out of all the coffee I had tried so far, this was the smoothest, It was soft with a slight tingle that made the experience most remembering.I wanted to return to this cafe for a second time, but time was tight. I would love to see the wood fired coffee roaster in action.



Over at the motel , I asked the front desk " I wanted to visit a Patisserie were I could get some Cannoli"(addiction hit my brain...)" the concierge recommended a patisserie by the harbour called Bar Rosanero located by Via Lincoln.

The next morning we made our way towards the harbour stopping at shops and visiting old churches along the way, we reached the patisserie after lunch.
The place was more of a large cafe, the atmosphere was local, very local.
"When two strangers walk into a local cafe full of regulars, its like a scene out of a wild west movie"- everyone turns and gives you the once over.
Placing my order at a both were the friendly owner will give you the order ticket, you then pass to the Barista who made my coffee with enthusiasm, the pastry are ordered at another counter with the same ticket, so hold on to it.

The coffee was great, intense, and earthy, the cannoli fantastic, crisp and fresh the ricotta not too overpowering sweet, I urge for people visiting Palermo to visit this Cafe Bar.


After that pleasant experience we walked the narrow streets for a few hours exploring the local shops & architecture of this city making our way to the town centre, then... I got a whiff of that unmistakable aroma, it did not take long until I found the source, a local coffee roaster doing his daily chore.

 I went in, had a chat with the shop owner and purchased 2 bags of their local roast to try back in London, the roastery was nothing fancy 'but boy' did the aroma work its magic with the locals, it remind me of a local bakery, everybody were buying their fresh coffee beans, this Torrefazione is located in the Vicciria market
This coffee I would have to try when back home.




That Afternoon dinner time was getting close, I came across a Illi cafe in one of the posh malls Via Principe di Belmonte, were men wear dark glasses and tidy suits, drinking illy in Sicily was like soda pop ,it is quite refreshing I must say, then across from the illy store was another local cafe that caught my attention, Cafe Spinnato I had to go in.



The front bar was packed, the atmosphere was posh, people in suits, woman in dress and all looking a million Euros, the coffee was fantastic, rich and smooth that leaves room for a second cup.
"Fantastic day", good weather, great scenery, great food, friendly locals and excellent coffee.

Now I was ready for dinner.

Sicily has some amazing sea food, the fish and shellfish are caught locally sold at the markets, were local restaurant Chefs have the best pick of the catch.
Sicilians are also very fond of Pasta of all shapes and size and Couscous which was introduced by Northern African immigrants who settled on this island a long time ago, Couscous dishes are very popular in Trapani.
There are many restaurants throughout Palermo which serve very good traditional cooking

Pasta con Sardo ( Fresh Sardine Pasta with tomato & fennel)

Pasta Ricci (Sea urchin)

Fresh Seppioline  in olive oil

The next morning we headed to Mondello a short bus ride from the main area of Palermo.
Mondello has lovely beaches that attracts tourists and locals over he summer months, we were there just after the high season so things were a Little quiet and cooler so there was no swimming.

Any how, we took a stroll along the soft sand beach and near by pier were fisherman can be seen mending their nets for hours in a state of trance, we had lunch at one of the many restaurants, were I had cactus pear (In season) for dessert for the first time, I had seen these fruit grow on Cactus trough out the outskirts of Palermo with their golden colour when ripe, chilled on a warm day these are perfect.




 After lunch I wanted to explore the local cafe for a after lunch espresso, it did not take long to find a place.
It was at the end of the main road, a cafe were local  fishermen and hardy locals would gather and discuss daily events.

We went in anyway looking for a espresso adventure, maybe another cannoli?

And what an adventure was to be found behind the bar, 4 group 85E La San Marco lever Espresso machine, first time I have seen one like this.
The coffee smooth rich & creamy  "well" take a look at the photos, that's all I really have to say.




I was so happy to have found that place, it really blew me away, because we as Barista strive for perfection with every coffee made, the Barista at this cafe also did likewise, and with a pull of the lever performed his magic, this I have very rarely seen perfected so well on a lever machine.

After an afternoon stroll along the beach, we made our way back to Palermo's centre, still with the memory of Mondello in our minds.





We joined in the fun and explored the night market selling all types of local produce there was local wine, sausages and sweets tastings, who could resist that?


What a great day, Palermo is a very exciting city.





The next morning we decided to visit Monreale and its famous Twelfth century church  up on the hill, it was a crowded bus ride as it was a rainy Sunday and church day for many people.
When we got here the views from that hill were breathtaking, the Church with its amazing mosaics was busy we stayed for the service and later decided to explore the town.

The amazing walls of the Cathedral

Monreale is quite picturesque, catering well for tourists, after a brief walk of the town, I went on the hunt for coffee.
As it was Sunday and the church service had finished cafe's and cake shops were packed, every one was buying cakes to take home and enjoy with family or friends, it must be a common thing to do on Sunday's afternoon.

Check out the crema

I finally got a espresso at a local cafe right near the church, and some gelato for my wife, The coffee was fantastic, the gelato, I only got to see...it must have been good!

We strolled around the town a little longer, then made our way to the bus stop so we could go back to Palermo, the day was still grey with rain clouds delivering their dose of precious water on our heads as we waited, I was not bothered as I could still taste that wonderful coffee flavours in my palate.


The following morning the weather had cleared, so we got up early and we made our way to the train station and go to Cefalu a short train ride from Palermo.

As the train weaves its way close to the sea, you finally get a glimpse of Cefalu and its cathedral.




Within minutes we were there, and decided to explore the town and shops hidden in the narrow roads that criss cross the hills.

We went to visit the eleventh century cathedral but it was closed for maintenance, we were hungry so decided to have lunch at the cafe opposite.



 I had one of the best seafood soups ever at this restaurant, this dish was jam packed with all different types of locally caught fish, it was just so tasty and the fish so fresh

The white wine I had at this restaurant was a house version which was just amazing, the colour- aroma with a peachy character and a slight dry finish which went so well with the thick fish soup.

Actually I was so impressed with the wine, ''as I usually don't drink much white wine'' , that I asked the waiter were the wine was from, his reply was ''From the hills over that way'', I asked if I could see the bottle and he agreed to show me, I went into the bar and the wine did not come in a bottle but a large cask with no writing or other information what so ever, just a big white box.
I never found out were that wine was from as the owner was not around, but I do take my ''hat off'' to the wine maker that lives on those hills, this just shows the quality of the local produce, rich soil and that not all expensive wines are the best choice.

The soup was so well made

That wine - that wine.. and fresh sardine pasta

After lunch we then decided to visit the beach, now that was when I realized how deprived of the sea I have been in London, having lived by the sea side most of my life.

As soon as I saw the waves and the blue water I went across the road and purchased a pair of board shorts and headed back to the beach( forgot to buy a towel) I spent the next hour body surfing and had the best swim in a long time, blue clean warm water, lots of waves, and decent sunshine.

Cefalu beach

The clouds gathered once more and I called it a day(also stopped my wife from calling me back in) as I came back to the shore the heavens opened quite heavy, it was a great way to get the salt of your body
We called it a day.

It was a sad afternoon as the next day we had to go back to London, when we returned to Palermo we made the most of it strolling around the streets one more time and looking for some final goodies to take home.
We had a fantastic time in Palermo and its surrounding towns. Its been a great coffee and food adventure, being my first time here, I will return.
 In the mean time I highly recommend you visit.

 Voglio Rivederti Palermo.